![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:20 • Filed to: Everything is ruined forever! | ![]() | ![]() |
Nah. Good old 80s Toyotas.
On the pickups, its the seam in the center running down the bed. On the Tercels, it’s anywhere and everywhere. On my Celica? How about under the spare tire.
I even see some attempts at welding. It could be worse. My brother laughed at my text and sent me a pic of his:
If anyone has any tips for how to keep kicking up water through these holes, please reply. I just want to stop having the windows fog up in the rain :) I’ll probably cut them out this summer though.
But the good news is that the hatch wasn’t leaking after all! Just some weight-savings air holes in the rear.
If you’re wondering if this changes my opinion about my purchase at all: Hell no lol. Half of the car could be missing, and it would still have less rust than my Tercel.
And besides, I can’t stop looking at it.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:24 |
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Replace it with an SC400.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:25 |
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![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:27 |
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Ok I’ll buy yours when you’re ready to sell it. I prefer gold badging, just a note.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:28 |
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scrap that junker.. lol
It almost looks like a plug fell out - look across the tub on the other side.. if the edges were exposed they would get rusty and flakey..
I would sand it back to good metal, POR15 or rustproof it, and then epoxy a patch in there. Aluminum would be good.
And I had an 86 4x4 that lost it’s box.. one flake at a time.. I actually replaced with another box after the bottom panel flew off while going down the road..
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:29 |
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I’m thoroughly ashamed. Not that it would have deterred me
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:29 |
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Is that not a drain hole? Looks like one to me there should be a rubber plug that goes there.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:30 |
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There’s one at 12 o’clock in the first photo (kind of cut off)... it’s some kind of cap or cover... Not sure what the 6 o’clock hole is about
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:32 |
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Thanks for the latter advice, but I’m going with the former and pushing the car down a canyon because it’s all over man
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:33 |
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I believe it's another drain hole. IIRC my '90 LS400 had two as well.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:35 |
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I’ll just believe you, as it is suspicious circular. But you see, now I have several drain holes. Innovation!
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:39 |
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My Accord?
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:42 |
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Easy repair.
I’d use a hole saw to clean it up (if you can do it without a pilot), then cut a circle of steel and weld’er in.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:43 |
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I’d use a bit of aluminum flashing and glue it in place with Dow Corning 3145 silicone RTV.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:47 |
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I shall be taking a crack at this summer for sure (never welded anything before). Adding to the ever-growing list of things I want to do on this car.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:48 |
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I’m sure you’ll take to it easy. And in this case, it’s not a repair somebody will see, so if the welds are boogery nobody cares.
If you were replacing a quarter panel... ugh
![]() 03/24/2016 at 18:52 |
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Yes! I hope I do better than the previous owner, with his epoxy and duct tape.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:00 |
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as a bodyman and toyota driver I threw up a little there
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:01 |
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Speed vents..
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:08 |
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As a guy who hates fogged-up windows, the thought of paying a body man to repair a 35-year-old car makes
me
wanna throw up! I mean, isn’t the immediate goal to keep out the water?
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:08 |
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just don’t plug steel hole with aluminum. aluminum plus steel plus moisture equals accelerated rust. It kind of turns into a battery and corrosion flow out from it. BTW that’s nearly a museum quality trunk when it comes to old yotas. Also 80's Toyota sheet metal doesn’t give you much to weld with. would be hard to learn on because it’s like cigarrette foil.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:13 |
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sorry, aluminum on steel is bad, and silicone is verboten. just thought I was being funny. But hate the body shop not the body man, two different things. A 1985 anything wouldn’t get in the door, it’s not easy money.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:15 |
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find the next biggest size of rubber bodyplug at napa, and hog out the hole to fit?
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:17 |
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Well there are several other pinholes at 7 o’clock though...
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:23 |
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ahh, are you familiar with the glorious product that is fibreglass?
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:25 |
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Si si
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:25 |
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I wasn’t offended. You and I see it the same way, but what difference does it make what you use for a patch if you keep the water out?
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:32 |
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3m panel bonding adhesive is amazing but pricey. But it’s an almost legit repair, it’s what gm put cobalt roofskins on with. also does excellent plastic repair.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:35 |
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Because galvanic corrosion, alluminum will make it worse. Its probably not the worst sin to put silicone in a trunk, but it’s against the rules. Even when being a dirty hack, use urethane.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:36 |
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I remember when I first bought my Fc rx7 and I bragged about it having no rust... that was before I looked.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:38 |
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The woes. The woes!
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:39 |
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Cool, I was interested in something effective but simple enough for a goon like me to use.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:41 |
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its why the bumper of 70's fords fell off in the 80's body shops didn’t put the plastic insulators back in between the bumper hardware or they just disintegrated over time http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/galvanic-corro…
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:48 |
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you need a fancy gun, but you can squeeze it out and mix like jb weld, if you used a little plastic mesh over the holes (no metal) and scraped it off inside and out, then slathered both sides, it would stay sealed for a long time, just overlap past the rotten area.
this is a similar product
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:50 |
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Duct tape, the handyman’s secret weapon.
- Red Green
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:51 |
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My vision has the two metals not touching because there’s that layer of silicone between them. When I was in the Army, we had stainless steel bolts inside zinc-coated inserts stuck in aluminum huts and the stainless bolts would corrode fast to the insert, which would then tear loose from the aluminum and spin freely instead of allowing the bolt to unthread. Fun stuff. And then the higher level maintenance shop would berate us for being stupid instead of offering meaningful assistance.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 19:57 |
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Found it. 3M 08115 panel bonding adhesive.
![]() 03/24/2016 at 20:00 |
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would work, save for salty water being a geat conductor. and watertight is way harder to do than airtight